Instant Install 29 – 20 Ounce Epoxy Permanent Repair Kit – Granite, Marble, Porcelain, Quartz, and Tile – Chips/Cracks – Rebonds/Rebuilds Missing Pieces – Dry in 29 Minutes – Tintable with EZ-Tint

My home has terrazzo floors that for 20+ years were covered with carpet that was in place when I bought the home. I decided to go back to the terrazzo and up the carpet came. I was extremely careful removing the tack strips so as not to damage the surface. However, to my dismay, I found a number of large and deep (1" X 1/2" or so) chunks missing in the doorways. All I can imagine is that at some earlier time someone had pulled out threshold nails and really done some serious damage.Next step? Call a couple of terrazzo repair/refinishing companies to get quotes. Following step? Bathe my face in cool water after reading the quotes. Both companies wanted upwards of $500 for the repairs. Further, they would not guarantee the color match. Third step? Google on terrazzo DIY. I found very little of use. The most amusing recommendation was to fill the holes with concrete and paint faux terrazzo stones on the surface with acrylic paint. Yeah, like that was going to work right in a doorway.I found several stone repair kits online but all were intended for marble or granite with minor chips, scratches, gouges, and open seams. They weren't cheap and the amount of material they included was so small that I'd have to have bought a dozen or so of them.Then I located this "29 Minute Epoxy." It was available as the bulk product or in a little kit containing a few tongue blades, some vinyl gloves, and some razor blades. Those cheap little items greatly increased the price and I had them at home, anyway, so I just bought the jars of resin and hardener.In one afternoon, I repaired all the holes. I must say that the repairs are not invisible if one goes looking for them but they are 99% improved compared to where I began. Here's my advice if you want to try this:First, clean the holes very, very thoroughly. They are likely to be black with accumulated dirt and grime. Use hot, soapy water and a toothbrush. You may need to use a dental pick or something of that sort to get out the tenacious bits, then back to the toothbrush. When you have removed all the dirt that will come out, swab the inside of the hole with undiluted household bleach. This will decolorize stains that are organic in nature. Dry the holes thoroughly with a heat gun or a hair dryer. This will leave you with holes that are the color of the concrete (or epoxy, if yours is a newer floor) with bits of the color chips visible. This cleaning process is the most tedious and time-consuming part of the job.Second, Put on disposable gloves and mix the resin and hardener in equal parts in a small paper cup. I used plastic spoons to remove the material from the jars. Be careful to use two spoons and don't get them mixed up. Mix the two parts VERY thoroughly. Unmixed bits will not harden but will leave you with a sticky mess. Fill the holes, leaving a slight excess so that the mass of the epoxy is a bit above the surface. Resist the temptation to use a putty knife or some such to level it off. Now go read a book or watch a football game for half an hour. When you return, the epoxy will be hard. It is clear and you will be able to see the concrete and stone bits through the mass of material.Last step, using a single-edge razor blade held perpendicular to the surface, SCRAPE the epoxy down until it is flush with the surface. Do not try to save time by attempting to shave or plane it off with the blade. Just patiently scrape until you have a flush, perfectly smooth finish. You're done. If you finish your floor to a high polish, you will want to buff the surface of the patch with some very fine steel wool before applying the floor finish. If you do not go for the mirrored floor look, then look across the patch so that light reflects off the floor and buff with steel wool until the surface of the patch matches the surface of the floor.Let me repeat, this will not be a perfect repair. You'll be surprised, however, at how well the concrete showing through the transparent epoxy fools the eye. In my case, it cost me less than one tenth the price of the not-guaranteed professional repair.This is a quality product, easy to use and does just what the manufacturer claims. Highly recommended.Next

The media could not be loaded. I'm surprised there are so many negative reviews - this stuff is insanely good.There were two giant chunks of countertop broken when I bought my house. The previous owner was a terrible DIYer, and used silicone to glue them back in. They were near the sink, and eventually lost their adhesion and worked their way loose. Now, I am also a DIYer, and have never even attempted anything like this before, but I at least do my due diligence enough to have found this product (and to know not to use silicone to repair granite!).You can see the before and after in my pics, and the after came out way better than even I could have hoped. Even in person it's barely noticeable, you have to really, really look. And part of the repair included building up a missing chunk, so you know this is pretty incredible stuff.Here are my tips..Buy a bunch of small samples to test your countertop color, I just searched "Mica Powder for Epoxy Resin" and a ton of options came up. This set of 24 had the color "Black Sea" that matched my green countertop almost perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759DH4ZG. I bought a few others and just returned the ones that didn't look right in person - it's sometimes hard to tell from a screen. The nice thing is that these little packs go a long way - you really don't need a lot of pigment at all to get your color. I still have about 95% of the color packet left over after my repair.Use more than one color; I marbled mine with a black dye that I had on hand.Clean your working area thoroughly, I used TSP, and test fit the pieces before you install them. Seem obvious, but still needs to be said.Test test test. I can't stress this one enough. It will help you get color and the mixture right, and give you more confidence working with it. Because it hardens so quickly, it really doesn't add on much time to do a few tests to get your color and consistency right. And it will give you a feel for your timing. I used my Echo to set a 1 minute timer to mix, a 5 minute working time, and then another 5 minute second-half working timer as a sort of warning to myself - and I could feel it start to get harder towards the end to the point where it becomes unworkable. Then just clean up the excess, mask it up with Frog tape, and leave it for the remaining time.Don't let it over-dry! I did that the first time and it got too hard - it flaked off with the razor instead of easily peeling off, and it pulled out the repair from my crevices. I found just following their directions exactly produced the best results (go figure).And don't be afraid to mess up. I tested it out a few times on some smaller less noticeable areas of my sink and found the color wasn't right, or the repair had other issues. I worked those out in the smaller places before tackling the big repair. I ended up pulling some of those out, it's pretty forgiving stuff until it really cures. Also, it seems to work better on deeper cracks where it has something to bite into.Go slow and steady with the razor when you're done, and if you mess it up, it's fine. You can just rebuild. I had to rebuild the small missing gap a few times before I finally got it to where I was satisfied.I know it seems like all this testing takes forever, but trust me it doesn't. I was done in an hour or so, and couldn't be happier. The end result far exceeded any expectations I had going into this, but I followed the directions exactly, did my research, experimented, and took my time on the final repair.If I can do it, literally anyone can. This stuff works.

I used this product to glue together two pieces of silestone countertops that had come apart over the years due to the original stonecutter not getting the angle correct. Over time, the joint had separated and I had a good 1/8th of an inch gap on the outside corner.FYI - For this project, I also used a suction cup device to pull and hold the pieces together as the stone cured. Got this one and it worked pretty well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVIQWOA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1The cups did slide a bit, so I didn't get quite as tight a seam as I wanted, but it's much better than it was.Anyway, this product worked as advertised. It smells like an 80s perm, but that's fine. It stayed workable for a good 15 minutes. I left the suction on the seam for about 15 hours, and when I pulled it off, the epoxy seems to be holding just fine. We'll see how it holds up over time, but so far, I'm very happy with the results.