mxuteuk 8pcs 6 Terminal 3 Position DPDT Mini Miniature Toggle Switch ON/Off/ON Car Dash Dashboard 5A 125V 2A 250V MTS-203

The media could not be loaded. Bought to create a 'screen accurate' Dorothy sensor from the movie Twister. The switch is very sturdy, has a nice good clicking sound with each flick. It's a good quality material with a nice red colored body. It was easy to solder my wire connections and there's been no issues so far. It's a nice sturdy and simple switch, easy for a beginner like me to use! Also a good number of switches for the price.

Works as described.

Great quality, great value.

Works perfectly fine. However, you can tell right away its made from cheaper parts.Compared to the more common/standard brands (Salecom, Alco, Multicomp), the screws, washers, and plastic housing all seem "strange", definitely not standard materials. Also, it has that "China" smell, which gets amplified when you start soldering - I actually turned on a fan to clear the air after soldering.Overall: cheap, but works fine. Perfect for prototypes or hobby projects.

Smaller than I expectedGreat for small project but be careful how much heat you use when solderingI melted a few because my iron was too hot (80watts?)

I needed a new switch as I was adding fm to my am radio project. A DPDT switch allowed me to individually add power to the am or fm front end circuits with one pole and select their low level audio output to send to the tone circuit/amplifier with the other pole. And center off means I only need the one switch.

They sure are some switches that work like switches

This review is for the SPST (two terminal) version on/off switch.These are inexpensive switches that are decent enough for non-critical projects. Given the low price point, I had planned to test one of these and then open it up. Not expecting quality you’d get from a C&K switch even though these look very similar.I connected some wires to banana plugs so I could get a good low-resistance connection into my DVM. When I soldered to the terminals however, one of them oozed its way from the plastic housing! You’ve got to be quick with these things. The switch lever got quite stiff but once I freed it up, the switch still worked.I did further tests by setting my soldering iron to various temperatures and pressing it directly into the plastic. The plastic starts melting at around 220°C. My low-temperature lead-free solder has a melting point of 227°. Next time, I’ll set the soldering iron as low as I can get away with and it will probably be OK by reducing soldering time to a minimum. Just be aware.Photos from the manufacturer show the terminals potted in place. But close examination of the switch terminals reveals that they are not potted but are simply pressed into place. In fact, the unused third terminal on this switch was open to the environment.The internal construction is rather simplistic, it’s just a lever with the center terminal serving as a fulcrum and working against a spring-loaded rod running into the handle. A plastic slider rocks the contact into place. There is no gold flashing of the terminals or contacts. I don’t know what the finish is of the contacts, they just appear a silvery metallic color. The contact resistance just read 0Ω when closed, so that is good. The switches (before I melted that one) have a decent and positive actuator feel.The included nuts don’t look too bad, but the lock washer and the tabbed panel orientation washer – both stamped from sheet metal – are not properly stamped nor fully formed.Overall – they’re cheap but they work. They’re OK for non-critical hobby projects. I would not use in an aerospace project or even in my RC controller as a throttle kill switch, which was their intended use. I’ll find something else.