BORA100" NGX Clamp Edge, Straight Cut Guide for Circular Saws, Aluminum, Includes 50-Inch Clamp Edge & 50-Inch Extension for 100-Inch Cutting Length, 544100

I got this with the saw guide, to make an "affordable track saw".Works pretty darn well for that purpose, once you get the edge guidealigned with your saw.BIG TIP:The clamp always seemed to be "sticking". Sometimes it would slide easily, butoften it would jam up and stop sliding at all. It took forever to figure out the trick.Now it slides easily all the time. The trick is this:* The orange part of the clamp has two little tabs sticking out at the back end.* I had no idea what they were for, and none of the instructions mentioned them.* You put the heel of you palm against the back of the gray handle (in the "open"position), and then pull back on those tabs with your fingers, as though pullingon a hypodermic needle.* Voila! The internals of the clamping mechanism (whatever they are) COMPLETELYdisengage, and the clamp slides freely in its track.Important Notes:1) In the pictures, the "edge guide" looks like thin tape that could go anywhere.It's not. It's a nice, thick piece of plastic, with adhesive on one edge so it is ready toapply, and there is cut-away on the bottom of the clamp to attach it to, so it works well.2) You NEED the edge guide. If you use the clamp for cutting sheet goods, you darnwell want that edge guide in place. It is the ONLY good way to align the clamp forcutting. (There are blade-markers on the saw guide, but they're not really useful forlining up the cut when the saw is on the guide. (If you take the saw off, they may work.I didn't.)3) To attach the edge guide, it's best to remove the clamping mechanism. (Easily doneby taking out two screws. The instructions don't say that (they could use improving),but it's pretty easy to figure out there is no way to attach the edge guide the fulllength of the clamp, until you do.4. The tape on the edge guide doesn't QUITE go to the end. It's maybe 1/4" short, butthere is an inch of extra tape, so do yourself a favor and cut off the end of the guidewhere there is no adhesive, before you start applying it to the clamp. That will removethe slight tendency of the edge to lift up--something I may have to trim off, eventually.5. Don't bother with the T-Square attachment! Total waste of money, if you're using theclamp as a track-saw. (For details, see my review of that attachment. It works fine whenit makes a "T", but it has to be in an "L" configuration to work with your saw. And in thatconfiguration, it fails miserably.)6. Now that you know you CAN'T depend on the T-Square for alignment, and you MUST havethe edge guide in place, do yourself a favor and mark BOTH sides of the panel you're cutting.Then put the clamp in place, and cut away. You'll save yourself the half-panel I ruinedbefore I figured out those steps.7. But there is still ONE MORE PROBLEM to solve, if your saw is like mine.The edge guard projects 1/2" beyond the edge of the clamp.The instructions for mounting the saw to the saw plate don't SAY to put the bladeas close as possible to the edge of the plate, but they should.What they DO say is to make sure the blade guard is free to move.That's a darn good idea. BUT...On my Ryobi saw, "reasonably close" puts the blade 3/4" from the plate.The blade guard is pretty thick where it is close to the plate, so I can get itthe saw MAYBE 1/8" closer, while still being able to move the guard.I KNOW I can move it 1/16" of inch closer. And I MAY be able to move it 1/8".But I NEED it to be a full 1/4" closer, for the edge-guide to be of any use.In "short" (pun intended), the edge-guide is 1/4" too short for use with myRyobi circular saw. Will it work with other saws? Don't know. But I wouldcheck the width of yours. If your blade guard is more than 1/8" from theedge of the blade, it won't work.There is a WORKAROUND, though. So check your saw before installingthe plastic strip that comes with the clamp. If it won't be wide enough,double-sided carpet tape and a strip of linoleum are the perfect size.Here's the procedure:a) Get a linoleum remnant from your nearest big box store, along withdouble-sided carpet tape.b) Cut a 2" strip of linoleum the length of your clamp.c) Put double-sided carpet tape in the groove under the clamp.d) Turn the clamp right-side-up and use your razor-knife to trim the excess tape.e) Turn the clamp over again, peel the backing from the tape, and put down thestrip of linoleum, shiny-side pressing into the tape.f) Find a nice long piece of wood you can cut the end off, and do it.Voila! You now have a perfectly-trimmed edge guide!

I have wanted something like this for years. It's a pain using C clamps and a board as a guide. Nothing works as well as you want and the clamps are finicky when trying to be precise. I recently purchased a small circular saw for cutting large format (2 x 4) tile. Clamping a straightedge to the tile just adds pressure for chipout. This works flawlessly, and if not abused will last me many jobs. When I consider that 2 tiles cost more than this tool I say this is the deal of the century. I made a flat tile holder out of 4 x 4s. Being planed dead flat tiles don't tend to crack near the end. The V groove is access for the blade and the off center cross member is for smaller tiles.Update. I was wrong. Tile dust got in the plastic clamping mechanism and locked it up solid. Only took a couple cuts. It's also thick to the point that I have to raise the circular saw up an that only leaves 1/8 inch below the tile. So ..... for wood it would probably be great not for tile.

Mine arrived in fine condition.Haven't measured the scale when its assembled, but I don't plan on using it, my ancient one was just a straight edges, that this is replacing.. so don't care per say, but for the price...The screws for connecting the two ends together were so tight, started to wonder if they were really meant to be taken out.. loctite or something. really had to be careful not to strip out the head on the 4.The 2 in the plastic butt end, no problem.First thing was to figure out the size ... M4 x 5mm screw , and order some allen head screws instead of the wonky fit phillips they have. And I'm assuming I'll drop them a bunch of times. So got a bag of 100 from Amazon.I had some 4mm-0.7 screws around (way too long), and perfectly threaded in.what I ordered from amazon, not received them yet.. but ordered the 2 different type, ones a pure cap head, the other bit of a truss head maybe.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0975MKBC5https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CG28JG8W?th=1I'm waiting on my shed build to rip sheet goods with this. I had something nearly 40yo that I bought when I bought my house... lost some of the pieces to it for clamping down to the sheet and the special wide head screws for joining the pieces together, so figured I'd try this thing.

When combined with the Bora NGX saw plate (for mounting a circular saw) this becomes a viable alternative to a high end track saw, but at a relatively low price. A good track saw is more accurate, but they can cost 8 times as much.I recently used this (with the addition of a NGX saw plate) to cut full plywood sheets for a Murphy bed project and the results were great. Much better than my old method of clamping a straight board the full length of the plywood and running the circular saw along the edge. That said, be aware that the clamp is narrow, so when used at full length it tends to inflect slightly in the middle if you are not very careful and this can affect cut accuracy. Also, tear out on plywood is still an issue, particularly when cutting against the top ply’s grain.If you are cutting 8’x4’ plywood frequently and need high quality cuts, invest in a track saw. However, if you do this only occasionally, then the Bora NGX system is a nice alternative and you will probably be happy you saved several hundreds of dollars that you can use for other tools you may also need.

Works great, very useful