BIGTREETECH ADXL345 V2.0 Accelerometer Board Klipper Input Shaping 3D Printer Hotend Parts Sensor Module Support USB Connection for Voron Stealthburner

Removed artifact in on my prints and made my machine run quieter. Now it’s the fans I hear instead of the frame humming. Was easy to configure and setup.

Item arrived on time in excellent condition.

This is the 3rd one I have purchased and they all work. I use USB connection instead of can communication. GitHub repository has been reworked and is a lot easier to read and understand than it used to be. Good luck.

I had to redo the wiring on my Ender 3 after making some major upgrades - moved to direct drive from a remote feed system, including an Orbiter - and had some REALLY long wire runs back to my control boards. I run Klipper so the option of using only four wires to bring all my hot end controls back to my Raspberry Pi sounded great. I mounted this on a point behind my print head as the board will not fit on the back of the NEMA14 motor like it would on a NEMA17. It did take a bit of programming work to get the CANBus set up in my printer config but now it is controlling the following: two fans, extruder motor, extruder heater, BLTouch, hotend LED and filament runout sensor.

great device. Would be even greater if there was some decent documentation

Performs like you would expect from the board. I had no issues with the EBB36.

I have been through so many of these boards, either from them failing in incredibly short order or showing up DOA. Its incredibly frustrating to try and print something, only to get random failures for no reason. Losses in connection with the MCU, random overload issues, loss in heating, fan MOSFETs burning out, you name it and it'll happen. I think my record for keeping one of these alive is something like 4 months, that is absolutely unacceptable

First off, I'm running this on an Anycubic Vyper conversion with a Stealthburner and a CW2 extruder. I've rewired my entire printer to accommodate CAN, and I'm running this in addition to an SKR Mini V3 3.0 a RasPi 4 8 GB, and a Waveshare RP485 Can Hat. I've purchased two of these boards, which we'll talk about shortly.The EBB36 board comes with everything you need to get set up, including two Molex Microfit 3.0 connectors and pins, a few JST connectors and pins, and some jumpers for initialization and termination. Like most of these DIY boards, you'll need to crimp your own connectors to get things running. But, if you're adding CAN to your printer, you're probably already familiar with how to do this.Flashing Klipper was easy, you just pop on a jumper and plug into your RasPi. I used Canboot, and there is plenty of info on how to do the same on the internet/Reddit. Software and support is outstanding via the BIGTREETECH github pages.You do, however, have to be careful with the polarity of your components. I accidentally reversed the polarity on my part cooling fan, and ended up frying the mosfets on the first one of these I bought. In a manner of seconds, I saw the magic smoke and realized my mistake. But things were already cooked. So, make sure you have the pinout for the board in front of you, and you double-check all your connections before powering the board on.Also, if you use ferrules on your heater wires, it may be helpful to swap the heater connection block around, so the terminal entry points face the USB connector. Those connectors have never been reliable for me, so I removed the block altogether and soldered my heater wires directly to the board.On the plus side, I will say I really like the fact that the EBB36 comes with a 120 ohm resistor built in, as it eliminates the need for additional resistors on the CanBus controller. I also like the fact that this board is built to fit around a Nema 14 stepper motor. It makes the whole Stealthburner setup look very clean.That said, there is one more pain point that deserves your consideration if you're going to buy the EBB36: that is the abundance of communication errors. Even after checking all my wiring and software settings and replacing my CAN hat, I will still occasionally get BLTouch communication errors when homing.Trying to chase this issue has been absolutely maddening. Though it's pretty sporadic. I've tried changing settings in the mcu.py file, adjusting jumpers, and resetting baud and TX rates, but nothing seems to help. Even now, I still haven't figured out why these errors are occurring.Many of the forums seem to think this is a common issue with this tool head setup, though I don't have enough experience to validate that claim. If I do get to the bottom of it, I'll amend this review to help those who might have the same problem.Overall, the EBB36 is a cheap way to get CAN working on your 3D printer. Just understand that getting it set up correctly might require a significant amount of time and troubleshooting. But if you're anything like me, you got into the 3D printing hobby because you enjoy that stuff anyway.